Monday, October 11, 2010

Harry Potter creator JK Rowling named most influential woman in the UK

JK Rowling, the writer who created Harry Potter, has been named the most influential woman in the UK by leading magazine editors.

Rowling, who recently donated £10 million to set up a new multiple sclerosis research clinic in Edinburgh, was chosen for her writing skills, tenacity to succeed and philanthropic nature, the National Magazine Company said.

Pop star turned fashion designer Victoria Beckham was the runner-up with the Queen in third place. The prime minister's wife Samantha Cameron was sixth.

The list of 100 women was compiled to mark the centenary of the National Magazine Company which currently publishes 20 magazines.

In a separate list, business magazine Forbes last week named Michelle Obama as the world's most powerful woman with the Queen, the only British national to feature in the top 100, placed 41st.

Friday, July 23, 2010

"Coco Chanel & Igor Stravinsky," don't ignite on screen

ou gotta be "A Poco Loco in the Coco" -- as the old cha-cha tune was called -- to attempt three Coco Chanel movies in the same year. One fell through, but two of them made it to the screen. Can the TV miniseries, dolls and bobblehead franchise be far behind?

"Coco Before Chanel," with Audrey Tautou in the title role, explored the budding fashionista's pre-perfume rise. Now "Coco Chanel & Igor Stravinsky," opening Friday at the Regent Square, takes us to and through her stormy affair with the pioneering Russian composer -- a Paris match or mismatch made in purgatory.

At its outset, Coco (Anna Mouglalis) has a rich, handsome boyfriend named Boy in hand but is also consumed by the cutting-edge arts scene in Paris. There, on May 29, 1913, she attends the scandalous premiere of Stravinsky's "Rite of Spring," choreographed by Nijinsky for the Ballets Russes -- a work as revolutionary in music as Coco's would become in fashion.

This opening "Rite" sequence is nothing short of brilliant, full of palpably chaotic energy: Everyone is hugely nervous backstage. "Forget everything you've ever heard before!" the hysterical Nijinsky orders his dancers. "Forget melody, follow the rhythm!" Suddenly, after the first deceptively calm bassoon notes introduce the wild shepherds' dance, we begin to realize it was the ballet and the in-your-face primal choreography that shocked and offended people as much as -- or more than -- the music. The upper-crust audience's confused muttering at the end of the first movement turns to outright hostility during the second, as warring factions start yelling not just at the performers but at each other.

Coco, for her part, is captivated as much by the riot as the music. Stravinsky (Mads Mikkelsen), for his part, is devastated.

Cut to 1920: Coco is now wealthy and successful but grief-stricken after Boy's death in a car crash. Igor, post-Russian Revolution, is now a penniless refugee living in exile. When they're introduced by impresario Serge Diaghilev (Grigori Manukov), the sexual sparks fly. Coco invites Igor, his consumptive wife Katya (Yelena Morozova) and their four kids to take up residence at her opulent new black-and-white expressionist villa -- its proto-deco wallpaper and designer satin sheets as monochromatic as Coco's clothes.

"You don't like color, Mlle. Chanel?" Katya asks.

"As long as it's black," Coco replies.

In any case, whatever her faults and quirks, it's pretty damned generous of Coco to house the polyrhythmic Stravinskys. But domestic dissonance -- and an affair -- are inevitable. Igor's amorous style does not involve a lot of foreplay. Their frantic frenetic couplings feature a great deal of his posterior but very little emotion, on either part. These are strange people in a war of the expressionless roses. Katya, as sickly as she is kindly, has a chalk-pale face and no eyebrows. Whenever the music emanating from Igor's studio stops, she gets worried -- for good reason. There's mounting on the piano bench, and such benchmarks continue to mount.

Dutch-born director Jan Kounen ("Darshan: The Embrace"), who replaced William Friedkin for unclear reasons, gives us strikingly beautiful Kubrickian images and camera movement (reminiscent of "The Shining"), with the aid of David Ungaro's fine cinematography. But they're done if not to death, to the brink of it. His terrific "Rite of Spring" sequence -- with exquisite shots and angles from the wings -- is never equaled thereafter. And the insufficient snippets of music are disappointing in quality and quantity alike. He never has the nerve to go with a full piece.

On the other hand, Coco's lab work amid the flower petals -- 80 ingredients and 100 blooms to make a single drop of Chanel No. 5 -- is fascinating.

Ms. Mouglalis' austere, graceful beauty and deep voice well suit her sleek portrayal of Coco, intimidating to point of terrifying. She has been the Chanel company's chosen model for perfume ads since 2002. How skinny is this woman? Remember Olive Oyl? No? Well, let's just say, if she drank tomato juice, she'd look like a thermometer.

Denmark's Mikkelsen is a stiff, stone-faced Stravinsky -- evidently much like the original, with his push-ups and raw egg at dawn, in preparation for a hard day's composing.

If only they (and the movie) weren't so totally humorless. These lovers desperately needed 20 minutes with Soupy Sales. Instead, they're generally too cool to say anything. Igor's verbalized thoughts always come late and often never arrive at all. "Coco & Igor" feels like a silent movie -- music and pictures, sans dialogue -- much of the time. Not a bad idea, conceptually, if executed with that in mind. Which this isn't.

In the end, it's unfulfilling but enough to satisfy the Coco nuts.



Read more: http://www.post-gazette.com/

Honoring the Designers of Today and Inspiring the Designers of the Future

What a thrill it was to participate in the White House ceremony hosted by First Lady Michelle Obama yesterday as she celebrated the 2010 National Design Awards honorees. The First Lady serves as the honorary patron for this year’s National Design Awards and her commitment to arts and design based education made this a very special event. We are honored to once again receive the patronage of the First Lady, as her support does such a lot to advance awareness of the importance of design.



The day began with a Teen Design Fair at the Smithsonian American Art Renwick Gallery, where DC high school students met one-on-one with leading designers in the fields of fashion, industrial design, architecture, multimedia and graphic design, including Jenna Lyons of J.Crew, Maira Kalman, Smart Design and Stephen Doyle. To close out the morning, an inspiring Q&A was held with Tim Gunn and Caroline Payson, Cooper-Hewitt’s Education Director, about the value of design education. Tim talked about how it took him time to find his design path and said that “there was no magic sauce to become a designer; it requires hard work and experience.”
Following the Teen Design Fair, the award winners and finalists attended a special luncheon at the White House, hosted by the First Lady. It was a very festive event and the setting reinforced the tremendous amount of design talent that exists in this country. Mrs. Obama’s speech emphasized the importance of design and arts education, and celebrated the value of the work of the award winners. Wayne Clough, the Secretary of the Smithsonian, introduced the National Design Award program and thanked the sponsors, and I showed slides of the winners and their work, naming both finalists and winners, you can see them here. I was lucky enough to sit next to the First Lady for lunch, so we talked about expanding the opportunities for high-schoolers to study design and develop their creative talents. Tim Gunn was sitting on her other side, so he was able to tell her a lot about learning the art of fashion design.
First Lady Michelle Obama talks with Timothy Gunn during a luncheon honoring the Cooper-Hewitt National Design Museum's National Design Award recipients in the East Room of the White House. July 21, 2010. 
A great conversation piece at the table were ViewMasters (designed by 2008 Lifetime Achievement winner Charles Harrison) with slides of the award winners’ work. The mutual appreciation in the room among the designers was quite moving, especially when James Corner of Field Operations told Design Mind winner Ralph Caplan that his books had a huge impact on his work.
The Awards program was launched at the White House in 2000 as an official project of the White House Millennium Council, and the annual National Design Awards celebrate design in various disciplines as a vital humanistic tool in shaping the world. The awards are Cooper-Hewitt’s most visible education program and always include a variety of special events, panel discussions and workshops.
The awards recognize extraordinary contributions to design in 10 categories: Lifetime Achievement, Design Mind, Corporate and Institutional Achievement, Architecture Design, Communication Design, Fashion Design, Interaction Design, Interior Design, Landscape Design and Product Design. The award recipients also will be honored at a gala dinner Oct. 14 in New York.
This fall, Cooper-Hewitt will continue celebrating the awards with National Design Week, which will take place Oct. 9-17, which aims to promote a better understanding of the role that design plays in all aspects of daily life. The museum will offer free admission to all visitors, courtesy of Target, and provide a range of online resources celebrating design throughout the week. Our website also features the year-round “Design Across America” map listing design-oriented events throughout the country. In addition to hosting a second Teen Design Fair in New York, our programs reach school teachers and their students nationally, in the classroom and online through Cooper-Hewitt’s Educator Resource Center. The site features more than 300 lesson plans aligned to national and state standards that demonstrate how the design process can enhance the teaching of all subjects and features discussion boards that provide a forum for educators to exchange ideas.
Master plan for Grand Central Partnership B.I.D., New York, NY, 1986–95. Artist: Jane Thompson, Winner of Lifetime Achievement Award.
International Design Conference, Aspen, CO, 1967–2001. Artist: Ralph Caplan, Winner of the Design Mind Award.
Cellophane House, Museum of Modern Art, New York, NY, 2008. Artist: Kieran Timberlake, Winner of Architecture Design Award.
The High Line, section 1, New York, NY, 2009. Artist: James Corner, Winner of the Landscape Design Award
Machiavelli: The Discourses construction, 2007. Artist: Stephen Doyle, Winner of the Communications Design Award.



From: http://www.whitehouse.gov/

Tuesday, July 20, 2010

New Project Runway Poster for Season 8


Ahead of the July 29 Season 8 return of Project Runway on Lifetime, fans of the popular designer fashion competition were recently given the poster for the new season of Project Runway. The Season 8 poster for Project Runway features style guru Tim Gunn and host super model Heidi Klum on a giant zipper.
In addition to the new Project Runway poster, fans also receive a 90 minute premiere in a new 9pm time slot. Heidi Klum, Michael Kors, and Nina Garcia return as judges, with Tim Gunn also back in the Project Runway mix as mentor to seventeen designers, the most in Project Runway history.

The new group of Project Runway designers will compete for $100,000 from L’Oreal Paris, a fashion spread in Marie Claire magazine, $50,000 worth of technology from HP and Intel, and the opportunity to design and sell an exclusive collection on Piperlime.com.

Check out the Season 8 poster for Project Runway:

From: http://www.thedeadbolt.com/

Bikinis are back: Designers show lots of bikinis during Miami Beach swim week

MIAMI BEACH, Fla. — Head to the gym for crunches — the bikini is back in a big way.
Designers from all over the world showed their new swimwear collections during the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Swim 2011, which ended Monday night.
Bikinis and cutout one-pieces dominated the catwalks. Some designers said they focused on bikinis because of the bottom line: They sell better. Others aimed for sexiness.
But can any figure wear them?
"I think it's not about age. It's not about your body," said Luli Fama designer Lourdes (Luli) Hanimian. "While you feel good and it makes you feel happy, you wear that swimsuit."
Gold, hot pink and turquoise were the popular colours. Gold hardware was used as embellishments in many collections. Designers also sent models down the runway accessorizing the suits with large, chunky necklaces and bracelets.
"Gold is definitely a trend. All the sparkling is really happening," she said.
MARA HOFFMAN
Mara Hoffman's swimsuits — mostly bikinis — were a kaleidoscope of colour, including red, turquoise and neon yellow. She used prints including a psychedelic one and a geometric print that had images of an eye and a pyramid.
"I definitely carried again the inspiration of the mystic journey. It's sort of my continual inspiration," she said.
A tight, turquoise minidress had hot pink, lime green and orange with an eye inside a pyramid and black straps on the back. A black one-piece had black crisscrossing straps around the stomach area. A black cutout had embroidery in the middle. A turquoise bustier top had neon yellow, hot pink and white geometric designs around the edges of the cups and sides of the bottoms. There was also a striking multicoloured caftan for a "high priestess '70s mystic mama feeling," she said. It looked like it would cover up flaws, but adding sexiness.
She also designed a wrap poncho coverup with Alternative Apparel. As well, there was a dramatic high-waisted bikini with lattice detailing on the sides of the bottoms.
SWIMWEAR ANYWHERE INC.
Swimwear Anywhere Inc. showed several of the lines it has licences for, including Marc by Marc Jacobs, DKNY and Juicy Couture.
For Jacobs, they showed a half-pink, half-blue bandeau top and bottom bikini and a blue bikini bustier with a matching skirted bottom. A model also wore a blue and pink geometric print one-shouldered piece.
For DKNY, a model wore a strapless blue-and-white maillot on a black background. There was also a beige, black and brown stripped maillot. Juicy Couture had several ruffled or skirted bottoms. A little girl also modelled the children's line with a yellow bikini.
Carmen Marc Valvo also launched his resort wear. The theme was safari, and shapes included halter jumpsuits, dresses and cargo pants.
TRUE RELIGION
True Religion stayed true to jeans. A model walked down the runway in a jean one-piece that had slashes in it. Just like jean pants, the suit gets a more washed-out with every washing.
A jean bustier was worn with bikini briefs with a brown trim. There was a black bikini with gold studs. Another black bikini had hardware on it. An olive-green triangle bikini top was paired with short-short bottoms of the same colour.
All the models were barefoot, and many wore scarves in their hair, hippie style. The vibe? Brigitte Bardot.
RED CARTER
Miami-based Red Carter said his theme was "from pop art to high art." And he staged his show at the Bass Museum of Art in South Beach, where models walked down the ramp that connects the floors. Before the show, he had a retrospective of his work where models posed on giant white cubes placed among the art works.
"I am trying to show the expressions of what people in pop culture are wearing these days but then also take risks and hopefully look artful," Carter said.
A black cutout one-piece was accessorized with silver and hot pink chunky bracelets. A model wore a translucent breastplate over a pink and white bikini. There was a neon studded bikini and a one-piece with the British flag on it, which looked stylish, but also comfortable. A newspaper-print bikini embellished with black accents, adding a little charm to it.
Carter also sent models down the runway in tulle capelets and skirts for effect.
CIA MARITIMA
At Cia Maritima there were lots of animal prints, including crocodile and tiger. The colour palette was mostly yellow, purple, light blue, brown and white.
A cream and brown palm leaf print bikini and matching coverup were paired with a multicoloured chunky necklace and bracelets. A model wore a long yellow dress with a turquoise necklace. An orange and purple tie-dye top had silver beads around the neckline. A gold sparkly bikini was worn on top of purple harem pants.
Rosset said he was inspired by Morocco, but he focused on bikinis because of Brazil.
"In our country, in our culture, we wear more bikinis," he said.
LULI FAMA
Hot pink and turquoise were big trends at Miami-based Luli Fama's show, as were bikinis and cutout one-pieces. An orange bandeau bikini was embellished with a gold starfish-shaped jewel. A turquoise one-piece cutout had a gold studded trim in the front. A multicoloured triangle bikini also had gold hardware. For coverage, there was a turquoise minidress with a sea pattern with starfish and sea urchins.
The bikinis came in all colours and styles: a hot pink bandeau bikini was decorated with a big bow on the chest and smaller one on the bottoms, a red bikini was embellished with a gold seashell in the chest area and one on the bottoms. There was also a gold studded bikini and another with a purple and white gingham pattern.
NICOLITA
The Nicolita show was an homage to Cuba. Cuban-American Nicole Di Rocco went back to Cuba and filmed a documentary. So, the trip influenced her collection.
"I have been able to develop the brand as well as develop my life and my personal journey," she said.
A photograph of a mojito taken in Cuba was made into a custom print that was put on to fabric and turned into a one-shouldered one-piece. There were lots of polka dots and braiding, and some models were sent down the runway with detached sleeves that were meant "to give a feeling of a night at the Tropicana," she said.
A black bikini with black and white stripes on top was paired with polka-dot bottoms and black, white and yellow sleeves, which created a little va-va-voom.
MARYSIA SWIM
At Marysia Swim it was a 1940s retro feel, with high-waisted bikinis that unbutton and can be folded down to avoid bad tan lines. Maria Dobrzanska Reeves was inspired by a dream vacation to Fiji and she used a fabric that reminded her of Fijian thatched roofs.
She used soft colours like rose, sand, seafoam, seaweed and some black details. As for shapes, they included boy shorts, string bikinis and one-pieces. There was a scarf-like dress and a pink and white bikini had a bustier top.
All the styles were very lady-like, which is a nice alternative to the vixen looks that were shown at other shows.
Models wore cone-like Asian hats and drummers played music as they walked down the catwalk.
AQUARELLA SWIMWEAR, KOOEY SWIMWEAR AUSTRALIA, LISA MAREE AND LISA BLUE
These four lines showed together. For Lisa Blue, aboriginal paintings were used to make prints for bikinis. Models also walked down the runway in tribal paint. There were swimsuits with Renaissance art work on them like Sandro Botticelli's Venus, while some bikinis had lace embellishment.
Aquarella showed a green peacock print coverup with a matching belt. And there was a coral bikini with black straps and bows on the sides. Coral, blue and pink were prevalent on the runway as were bikinis and monokinis.
Kooey had an Aboriginal artist draw all the prints. Oranges, purples, pinks, blues were major colours. The line also had traditional Aboriginal dot prints, stripes and swirls. Like an orange bandeau swirled bikini that was meant to look like sand swirling in the desert.
At Lisa Maree, the crochet bikinis and one-pieces were sexy. A gold mesh tank top with brown knit bottoms was paired with a safety pin-like necklace worn around the shoulders.

From: http://www.google.com/hostednews/

Monday, July 19, 2010

Fashion News Roundup: The Same Miu Miu Dress Lands Three August Covers, Ghesquière Named Superstar, and Vena Cava Collabs With Bloomingdale’s Aqua

Ghesquière Superstar: The Fashion Group International has named Balenciaga’s Nicolas Ghesquière their newest “Superstar.” {Vogue UK}

Too too Miu Mui: Oops. The same version of an appliqued Miu Miu dress is on the covers of the August editions of British Vogue, Elle UK, and W. Guess the fashion world isn’t as small as we thought? {The Guardian}

(More) Affordable Vena Cava: Lisa Mayock and Sophie Buhai of Vena Cava have teamed up with Bloomingdales for a limited-edition collection for the department store’s in house line, Aqua. Vena Cava for Aqua is set to launch late August. {Elle.com}

Rent the Runway, Runaway Success: Rent the Runway, the site starting by two Harvard B-School grads last year that rents out designer dresses and accessories, has raised a over $15 million combined from Bain Capital and Highland Capital. {WWD, subscription required}


From: http://fashionista.com/

Fashion Designer, Makeup Mogul Sell Luxury Goods ‘Inspired’ By Dead Maquila Workers

They say nobody ever went broke underestimating the taste of the American public. If that maxim holds, high fashion designer Rodarte and trendy makeup manufacturer M.A.C. should do very well with their $4,000 dresses and $20 bottles of nail polish inspired by the "dreamy," "ghostly," "romantic" lifestyles of the maquiladora workers of Juarez.

Rodarte's designers, Laura and Kate Mulleavy, say their collection was inspired by the sight of women factory workers trudging to work at four o'clock in the morning. "At Rodarte, the designers were inspired by the idea of workers in Mexican maquiladoras walking half-asleep to the factories in Juarez, after dressing in the dark," explained the LA Times' fashion blog.

Pretty romantic right? I don't know about you, but I'm always at my most fashion-forward during bleary-eyed early morning commutes. Mismatched socks are sexy. You know what would be even more romantic? Dead commuters. As we all know, dead women are sexier than live ones. Casting your models as ghosts is also a good excuse to make them very, very white.

Catherine Piercy of Vogue gushed that the Mulleavys were "conjuring the spirit world" in their February show in which "their haunting new muse sleepwalks through Texan border towns in a shredded gown of brightly colored wildflowers." Their shrouds were edged with burnt sequins. Laura Mulleavy told Piercy that she wanted to make the pale-skinned girls look “like beautiful ghost versions of themselves.”

At first, the world of high fashion was charmed by the Mulleavys' fetchingly ethereal army of ghostly maquila workers. Apparently no one in the fashion press thought there was anything untoward about young American designers making $4,000 dresses inspired by the exhausted Mexican factory workers.

Rodarte finally went too far, however, when it teamed up with M.A.C., Estee Lauder's edgy urban brand, to create a line of co-branded cosmetics.

Last week, Jessica Wakeman of the Frisky was appalled to notice that the MAC line included nail polishes with names "Juarez" and "Factory." If the average American has ever heard of Ciudad Juarez, it's in connection with hundreds of unsolved murders of young women, many of whom worked in the maquiladoras. These foreign-owned manufacturing plants deliberately recruited a predominantly female workforce on the assumption that women would be more docile and less likely to organize.

As of February 2005, 800 bodies of murdered women had been found, many bearing signs of torture and mutilation. There are various theories about who is responsible. Some of the murders are probably the work of a serial killer or killers. Some may have been victims of family violence, organized crime and/or corrupt police officers.

The point is that from the early nineties onwards, economic and social conditions made Juarez an ideal hunting ground for anyone who wanted to kill young women with impunity. (Working In These Times contributor Kari Lyderson has written extensively on the femicides of Juarez.) It's not clear whether the femicides have trailed off in recent years, or whether they've simply been drowned out by the ferocity of the drug war on the border.

Here's the real story behind that "romantic" commute: The population of Juarez exploded between 1990 and 2000, with the implementation of NAFTA accelerating growth in 1994. The Mexican government bent over backwards to attract foreign plants with tax breaks and lax regulations.

Thousands of young people travelled to Juarez in search of work in the maquilas. The city's infrastructure did not expand to accomodate the influx. Wages were low, but the cost of living was high compared to the rest of Mexico. Many maquila workers ended up in shantytowns far from their factories.

Just getting to work became a perilous journey for many young women who had come to Juarez seeking a better life. Many femicide victims were abducted on their way to or from the factory. One young woman died trying to get home after her boss locked her out of the factory for showing up a few minutes late to work.

M.A.C. and Rodarte finally issued a statement after Jessica Wakeman's post caught the attention of major fashion bloggers. Therein the firms apologized for offending "some of their consumers and fans" and issued a vague promise to give "a portion" of the proceeds of the joint collection to "help those in need in Juarez." It's a classic "I'm sorry if you were offended" apology which sidesteps the issue of whether the companies are sorry for what they did, or whether they're simply sorry to have offended potential customers. I'll be surprised if anyone in Juarez gets a cent.

I have some ideas for next season's Rodarte collection. Maybe next year's collection should draw inspiration from the dreamy, ethereal cross-border cocaine trade that fuels New York Fashion Week. Better yet, they could cash in on the current vampire craze with a line inspired by the fashions of CEOs who outsource jobs to exploit workers.

From: http://inthesetimes.com

Thursday, July 15, 2010

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Kristen Stewart’s Second Battle With Hurtin’ High Heels At Second Premiere In A Week!

Just one night before, you told us exclusively that your feet were killing you on the long twilight-colored carpet at the Eclipse premiere. “Right now my feet hurt, I feel like they’re going to fall off,” you confided. “I actually feel like I’m not going to finish, so I’m kind of stressing about that.”
It was no wonder your feet ached in those gorgeous but 4-inch high-heeled Christian Louboutin Big Lips 120 suede pumps and that by the time you hit the afterparty you had slipped into comfy flats.

You didn’t even wait that long at the Riley’s event. You smartly took along your trusty BFFs: your old Converse to pull on before the Q & A with reporters.

And yes, you sounded off again about the perils of high heels: “I feel like my feet are really pissed off at me, just because of the shoes,” you told People.

Don’t worry Kristen. Now that your two premieres are done, you can put your feet up for at least a week and a half before you start shooting your role as “Mary Lou ( the Jack Kerouac character’s wife)” in your new indie film, On the Road.

From: http://www.hollywoodlife.com/

Strange But True: Gypsies Are Teaching Angela Lindvall The Accordion

Steven Meisel’s jazz-themed campaign for Prada’s new Swing sunglasses allowed Angela Lindvall to indulge in some very satisfying make-believe. “I always had this secret desire to be a piano bar singer, and I kind of got to live out my fantasy through this Prada campaign,” Lindvall said last night at the launch party at storied New York lounge Joe’s Pub, where the evening’s main act was resurgent punk pioneer Nina Hagen.

Although Lindvall hails from Kansas City, home of musical wizards Charlie Parker and Count Basie, she never learned an instrument. But thanks to some “gypsy musician friends,” she’s recently grown fond of the accordion. Her tutors are known as the Petrojvic Blasting Company. “My friend picked them up on the street and brought them to our house. They’re from Tennessee,” Lindvall explained. “They’re good guys. They’re very happy if you make them Hungarian goulash—they’ll play music for you all night.” And, apparently, teach a supermodel basic squeezebox.

From: http://www.style.com/